Tendances lingerie: les nouveautés 2017

A l’occasion de la Saint Valentin, je vous fait découvrir les nouvelles tendances lingerie à adopter avec votre chéri ou pour les années à venir.

Lingerie seconde peau, active, minimaliste, inspirée de la danse et du yoga, déferle sur le marché. Les dessous renouvellent leurs codes esthétiques. Focus sur les tendances lingerie, des dessous qui prennent un sérieux twist sportwear. Des tendances qui ont évidemment influencées les choix de ma future marque underwear.

Tendances lingerie hybride : confort & sexy

87% des femmes exercent une activité sportive. 41% des Américaines et 25 % des Françaises portent des soutien-gorges de sport la journée. Des marques comme Maison Lejaby, Toru and Naoko ou encore Rossell England intègrent à leur lingerie fine des élastiques et des empiècements empruntés aux équipementiers sportifs.

Il est devenu trendy de porter un sous-vêtement fonctionnel et sexy. Cette lingerie hybride s’inspire fortement des marques de haute-couture qui ont mis au point des collections qui se portent à la salle de sport comme au bureau. Une tendance que les Américains ont baptisé le «wear anywhere» («se porte partout»), avec des mailles techniques, anti-transpirantes et infroissables. Yohji Yamamoto et sa collaboration avec Adidas, Y-3, ont connu un succès considérable en surfant sur cette vague. Les marques de prêt-à-porter, tels que H&M, ou Mango, ont naturellement récupéré ce phénomène pour le rendre populaire. D’autant que les nouvelles génération sont tendance à choisir leur lingerie à un âge plus précoce que leurs aînées.

 

Tendances lingerie : 2017 sera « bralet »

Résultat de recherche d'images pour "the bralette trend"

Et si vous portiez de la lingerie à la fois sexy et confortable pour la Saint-Valentin ? La bralette – avant tout malentendu – est un petit haut hybride, à mi-chemin entre la lingerie fine et le top. Plus sexy qu’une brassière, plus couvrant qu’un soutien-gorge et encore plus court que le cropped top, ce bout d’étoffe risque fort d’être un des must have de l’année 2017.

Venue du marché nord-Américains, la forme Bralet vient de traverser l’Atlantique. Exit coussinets push-up ou armatures… Plus glamour qu’une simple brassière mais plus couvrant qu’un soutien-gorge, le bralet est flexible et confortable. Ce soutien-gorge sans armatures convient à toutes les poitrines grâce à son élasticité et la forme triangle des bonnets qui souligne les courbes. Il se laisse deviner sous son chemisier par un bout de dentelle ou un élastique impeccablement placé.

La bralette se la joue dessous dessus. « C’est la brassière que l’on aime montrer. La nouvelle génération aime détourner », commente la directrice marketing du Salon International de la Lingerie. La bralette se laisse ainsi deviner sous un chemisier, se superpose en hiver à un col roulé blanc. Si la bralette ne rentre pas dans la case des cropped tops, les plus audacieuses s’autoriseront même à la porter en top.

Tendances lingerie féministe

tendances lingerie
Les profils hétérogènes de Pansy.

Qu’ils sont loin, les corps épilés et bronzés des catalogues de lingerie. Sur Instagram, des marques d’un genre nouveau mettent désormais en avant les courbes réalistes de leurs modèles, et pourraient avoir définitivement changé la donne. La preuve. (Article tiré des Inrocks )

Une pose lascive, un grain de peau parfait et des courbes défiant les lois les plus élémentaires de la physique… Pendant longtemps, le monde de la lingerie féminine a fait appel aux mêmes corps hypersexualisés pour vendre à grands renforts de flou gaussien ses collections de dessous. Une esthétique sulfureuse digne des téléfilms érotiques qui embrasaient régulièrement le petit écran des années 90 et qui semblait toujours se porter sur les fantasmes (réels ou supposés) des mâles hétéros.

Bien qu’éculée, l’équation “90-60-90” influencera donc toute une génération biberonnée aux punchlines d’Eva Herzigova pour Wonderbra en 1994 (“Regardez-moi dans les yeux… J’ai dit les yeux” puis celles d’Adriana Karembeu en 1999 (“Je ne sais pas cuisiner… et alors ?”) quand elle ne révisait pas dans sa chambre les 183 leçons de séduction d’Aubade.

Même son de cloche du côté des Princesse Tam-Tam et autres Etam, qui, s’ils proposent des modèles neutres dans leurs catalogues, choisissent de mettre en scène pour leurs campagnes de jolies jeunes femmes au  regard ingénu  ou tentent un show à la Victoria’s Secret version française. Un état d’esprit que résume Léonor Rubio, chargée de communication digitale pour Implicite :

“Jusqu’à la fin des années 2010, les femmes devaient choisir entre une lingerie confortable et peu séduisante et le combo jarretelle-balconnet-dentelle, c’est-à-dire le très sexy.”

Nouvelles alternatives

Et puis… le web est arrivé, et la donne a changé. Sur Pinterest puis Instagram fleurissent les premiers moodboards célébrant une lingerie nouvelle capable d’allier style et bien-être, très loin des corps “beach body ready” des communications traditionnelles.

tendances lingerie
Les modèles de la marque new-yorkaise Land of Women

Une esthétique alternative fleurant bon le féminisme qui élève soudain au rang de modèles les corps vergéturés, tatoués et autres bonnets double D jusqu’ici cantonnés aux shoots underground. Parmi ces jeunes marques, la pionnière néo-zélandaise Lonely, qui impulse dès le lancement de sa ligne lingerie, en 2010, un mouvement qui, s’il n’a alors pas de nom, serait aujourd’hui qualifié de body positivism (ou l’idée que de la beauté sommeille en chaque corps) en faisant poser en sous-vêtements toutes les morphologies à travers son journal Lonely Girls Project. Et Helene Morris, co-fondatrice de la marque aucklandaise, se réjouit :

“Si le projet était incompris à son lancement, cette célébration finira par payer : maintenant, ce sont nos clientes qui nous envoient leurs photos d’elles au naturel pour être repostées !”

tendances lingerie
En 2016, Lena Dunham et Jemina Kirke de la série “Girls” posaient pour Lonely Lingerie et mettaient en pratique le mantra de la marque : “Pour les femmes qui portent de la lingerie comme une déclaration d’amour à elles-mêmes”.

Un succès qui traduit l’évolution fulgurante des mentalités chez des consommatrices toujours plus militantes. Même chose en 2013 avec les Franco-Danois de Base Range, dont les lignes minimales, à la limite du sportswear, en font la première marque de lingerie alternative à intégrer le très luxueux e-shop net-a-porter.

Donner du sens

Un engouement qui prend définitivement corps en 2013 avec la création du label Land of Women en 2013. Le principe ? Une marque autant qu’une source d’inspiration, comme en témoigne leur compte instagram @LandOfWomen où se côtoient images lookbook et clichés vintage d’une Charlotte Rampling en nuisette ou d’une Björk donnant le bain à son fils.

Au-delà du produit, il s’agit désormais pour ces marques de construire autour d’elles un univers porteur de sens” analyse Florence Peyrichou, spécialiste lingerie du bureau de style Nelly Rodi. Au-delà de la lingerie, le label propose d’ailleurs des cosmétique. Un discours qui fait écho à la montée des discours de self empowerment (ce mouvement cherchant à se valoriser tel que l’on est) de ces dernières années, avec des femmes qui cherchent désormais à se séduire elles-mêmes pour reprendre possession de leur image et, in fine, de leur sexualité. Plus récemment, c’était le coton aux découpes sensuelles de Marieyat et les modèles aux aisselles poilus de Pansy qui venaient rejoindre le mouvement.

Et si la tendance reste encore très anglo-saxonne, la France pourrait bien être la prochaine sur la liste à se plier aux nouvelles règles de la lingerie féministe : en octobre 2016 naissait ainsi Breakfast Club Paris, marque de culottes made in France et fervente partisane du mouvement “no bra” en bannissant les soutien-gorge et brassières de son offre, tandis que le corsetier français Maison Lejaby faisait poser pour la première fois depuis 1930 des modèles androgynes pour sa campagne institutionnelle. La boucle (on l’imagine en satin) est presque bouclée.

tendances lingerie
La campagne automne-hiver 2016-2017 de Maison Lejaby

Autant de tendances lingerie qui m’ont poussé à vouloir créer ma propre marque Underwear.

Tout se crée, tout évolue et aujourd’hui, la liberté et la créativité font la féminité.

Cette semaine, je serai à l’atelier pour affiner mon offre, présenter mon projet en détail et espérer trouver réponses à mes questions. Le tout pour créer une jolie marque et des beaux produits pour nous, les femmes.

Beijos!

Cillaluz

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94 Commentaires

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